Come and be part of a global voice for wild plants and fungi
This autumn, help us find Britain’s most colourful and important fungi – waxcaps.
Fungi are crucial to nearly all life on Earth, but they are not given the recognition and investment they deserve. Will you join our mission to change that?
Our corporate partners benefit from 35 years of experience in nature restoration so they can achieve real impact.
Become a Plantlife member today and together we will rebuild a world rich in plants and fungi
Read in: EnglishCymraeg
Managing or making meadows, whether as part of your lawn or larger sites, can sometimes lead to a prickly problem, with plots of docks or nuisance nettles!
Problems can arise by opening the soil or when the nutrients are very high – but our experts are here to help.
While most plants have some value to wildlife, species such as Common Nettle Urtica dioica, thistles Cirsium sp and docks Rumex sp can spread rapidly in meadows or lawns with sub-optimal management and crowd out wildflowers. Small amounts of these species are natural in any grassland, especially along boundaries or corners, large amounts of them can indicate a problem.
However, large swathes of thistles or nettles will result in less space for a diversity of other flowering plants, which could result in a meadow being less valuable for wildlife. Also be aware that an area that has alot of these problem plants already, is usually best avoided altogether if attempting to make a new meadow area.
Preventing problem plants establishing in large numbers is better than a cure . It is best to:
Broad-leaved Dock Rumex obtusifolius can grow up to 120cm tall and has wide lower leaves that are slightly wavy-edged. The upper leaves on the flowering stem are narrower. The leaves may be slightly red tinged.
Curled Dock Rumex crispus is like Broad-leaved Dock but has narrower leaves tapered into the stem with strongly crisped edges. Docks are an important plant for a range of insects such as capsids, weevils, beetles, spiders and many other insects.
Spear Thistle Cirsium vulgare is a biennial plant, forming a rosette of spiny and sharply toothed leaves in the first year and producing large purple flowering heads in the second year.
Creeping Thistle Cirsium arvense is perennial with wavy-toothed leaves that have slender spines and smaller purple flower heads.
Common Ragwort Jacobaea vulgaris is a biennial member of the Daisy family. Its seed germinates in the autumn producing a rosette of leaves. During the second year, the plant sends up flowering shoots which have multiple yellow flowers.
Common Ragwort is known to support more than 129 other species of invertebrates and has enormous value for wildlife. It acts as a nectar source for pollinators as well as some larvae of flies and beetles which feed on the inside of the flower head. The caterpillars of the cinnabar moth eat Common Ragwort acting as a natural biological control agent. In addition, 14 species of fungi use ragwort as their host.
Common Nettle Urtica dioica is a coarsely hairy plant with stinging hairs that have a histamine-containing juice. Plants are dioecious – male or female. It has far-creeping underground rhizomes which can spread creating large clumps of common nettle.
It is an important plant for a range of insects such as ladybirds, damselflies, capsids, weevils, beetles, and spiders. Young nettles are the food plant of many moth larvae such as the snout, dot, burnished brass and younger mother-of-pearl and butterflies such as the peacock, small tortoiseshell and comma.
Many of them have seeds that are very fertile and spread on the wind, usually dropping far away from the parent plant. A single Common Ragwort plant can produce up to 200,000 seeds, and these can lie dormant in the soil for as long as 20 years. Common Ragwort is also a problem in particular for livestock as the plant contains toxic alkaloids which act as a cumulative poison eventually destroying an animal’s liver.
Some species also have rhizomatous roots that are spreading meaning that they form dense clumps in grassland. Accidently breaking up the roots when removing certain species creates larger clumps as even small bits of root can grow into plants and can remain dormant in the soil for years. For example, Creeping Thistle can create a 20- metre patch in just two years from a small bit of root left in the ground.
Spear Thistle, Creeping Thistle, Broad-leaved Dock, Curled Dock and Common Ragwort are classified under the Weeds Act 1959, under which orders can be made requiring their control to help prevent their spread. So, controlling populations of these two species should be undertaken to manage the extent of clumps as total elimination is unlikely to be achievable or desirable.
All methods of managing problem plants need patience above all else. Most often it can take years before problem plants are brought back under control.
Essentially pulling by hand is going to be the simplest and least invasive way of managing most of them, or simply cutting the heads off the plants before they flower or set seed for others. However, if you have large numbers of plants and are unable to physically remove them, then spot-spraying can be used. We would always recommend consulting an expert for suitable and available herbicides that will affect the specified problem plants and how to apply the chemicals safely. Spraying is usually most effective early in the season (May or June) before the plants’ flowers are developed. When found along the edge of watercourses, there are additional concerns about using herbicides.
It is important to take care when digging to remove some species, as Creeping Thistle for example can spread further if fragments of roots are left in the soil, whereas digging and removing Spear Thistle is not a problem.
In a well-managed sward, Common Ragwort seldom gets the chance to establish. Pulling and digging is often the most effective control method. Hand tools can be used to make the job easier such as a ‘lazy dog tool’ and a ‘rag-fork’. Gloves must be worn! This method should be done early in the summer before the flower heads mature with best results when the soil is wet. This enables the whole plant to be removed as small bits of root left in the soil can grow becoming new plants. Roots are more likely to break in dry ground potentially creating a larger problem with a halo of new plants around the removed parent plant. Cutting can be used as a method, however it is essential to cut before seed heads are mature and this must be followed with another control technique. Cutting may stimulate the growth of side shoots and vigorous growth in the following year.
Common Nettle is usually best managed through cutting by mechanical means such as a tractor-mounted cutter, strimmer or by hand, using a scythe. This method is best used where infestations of Common Nettle are small, bird nesting is not an issue, equipment and labour are available and where total control is neither desirable nor necessary. Repeated cutting combined with close mowing of the area will weaken Common Nettles and allow the grass to successfully compete over a period of years.
There are other species of thistles that are not considered problem plants, such as:
There are other Dock species that are present in grassland and are not considered problem plants in the legislation. These include:
There are other Ragwort species that are present in grassland and are not considered problem plants in the legislation. For example:
Managing or making meadows, whether in a lawn or larger site, can sometimes lead to prickly problem plants like docks or nettles. Follow our expert advice for managing problem plants.
Yellow Rattle, is the single most important plant you need when creating a wildflower meadow. Here’s everything you need to know.
Want to start a community meadow, but not sure where to begin? Read our guide to creating a flower-filled haven for your local community.
Known as nature’s meadow maker, Yellow Rattle, is the single most important plant you need when creating a wildflower meadow.
Here’s everything you need to know.
Yellow rattle, commonly known as the meadow maker, is one of the most important plants you need for a meadow. Without it, vigorous grasses can grow unchecked and smother flowers you want to encourage.
As Yellow Rattle Rhinanthus minor grows in a meadow the grass will become thinner, making room for plants like Oxeye Daisy, Knapweeds and Vetches to appear. And if you’re lucky, maybe even an orchid will pop up.
Then large bees, especially bumblebees, move in and pollinate the flowers of yellow rattle and it’s large seed pods dry and ripen. This leaves the seeds rattling around inside. Farmers used to use the sound of the rattling seeds as their cue to cut the hay – hence the name.
Yellow Rattle is a very useful starting plant when making a wildflower meadow, but it can be a little tricky to establish. Here are some top tips to get you started:
If you have very fertile soil, it might be trickier to grow Yellow Rattle. Poor and infertile soils are best and following the steps above will help reduce the fertility of your soil over time.
Your go-to guide for transforming places into flower-rich meadows.
Late summer (August-September) is the best time to sow Yellow Rattle. It will not grow successfully if sown in the spring. The seeds can be sown no later than November because they need about 4 months below 5C to germinate in the spring.
Yellow Rattle is easy to collect by hand. Simply hold a paper bag under the ripe seed pod and shake it gently with your fingers. Collecting larger quantities can easily be done using a vacuum or leaf blower.
WATCH: Plantlife’s Sarah Shuttleworth collects Yellow Rattle with a vacuum.
There are a number of reasons why Yellow Rattle may disappear from a meadow, including:
For meadows, we recommend 0.5-2.5kg per hectare/10-20g per m2 if you are collecting your own seed.
There are several possible reasons:
It’s not just humans and animals that have DNA in their cells, plants and fungi do too.
In fact, DNA barcoding can be used to identify plants, detect invasive species and help conservation work, as our Senior Ecological Advisor Sarah Shuttleworth explains.
Like all living organisms, plants and fungi have DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) in their cells. DNA is the genetic code, which is the blueprint for genes, which gives an organism its specific characteristics. Different species will have a different DNA blueprint (with small variations within that as well) and these can help us tell species apart and see which ones are closely related.
I was recently offered a place on an exciting course to learn all about DNA barcoding and how it can help my work as a botanist.
Put simply, we can compare different DNA blueprints by comparing just a small section of the DNA sequence. This small section is referred to as the DNA barcode. There is a reference library which contains information about many species with their corresponding barcode.
In order to compare DNA barcodes of different species, the shortened sequence (region) needs to be the same region of the comparison species. However, which region you select to shorten and use for comparison is different depending on which type of organism you have. For example, all organisms within the animal kingdom are identified using the same specific DNA region, whilst all plants are identified using a different region.
The DNA region used for barcoding differs between kingdoms:
DNA barcoding relies on a region of DNA that varies significantly between different species to allow the different species to be identified.
First, we need to collect a tiny bit of plant and/or fungi samples for our study. We don’t need much, just a small amount to get the DNA. To get the DNA out, we cut really tiny pieces from the samples. Then, we put these pieces in a tube with a special liquid solution and smush them with a small tool to break the cells apart and release the DNA.
Next, we need to make lots of copies of the DNA which we do by using a special mix of certain chemicals (there are different special mixes for plants and fungi).
To check if we’ve done it right, we use a method called gel electrophoresis. This method is used to separate mixtures of DNA, RNA, or proteins to molecular size (you will see a nice clear line in the gel if it has been successful.) This helps us see if the DNA we extracted is good and whether we can send it to the lab. The lab will then send us the DNA sequence so it can be compared it to other sequences in a big database.
Using these DNA barcoding skills can help us in many ways, including identifying single species or a community of species.
It is quite a technical process but as local groups (mainly fungi recording organisations) are starting to invest in the kit, more people should be able to get involved in DNA barcoding.
I hadn’t had a chance to do anything like this since my first year at university and I was surprised about how much came flooding back to me. The course was a great opportunity to learn and refresh my skills, as well as meet other people with an interest in species identification and conservation.
After more practicing, we hope to use these skills to add to the genomic database and assist our own species recording accuracy.
In the future, perhaps Plantlife can utilise these skill sets for looking at species assemblages on our reserves or places we are hoping to maximise conservation efforts.
Volunteer biological recording group RoAM (Recorders of the Avalon Marshes) at Somerset Wetlands NNR (National Nature Reserve) organised the DNA barcoding course with funding from Natural England through the Natural Capital and Ecosystem Assessment Programme. I was offered a spot on this exciting course due to my work and contacts in a voluntary capacity with the North Somerset and Bristol Fungi Group.
Natural England: EDNA (Environmental DNA) approaches to environmental monitoring are incredibly valuable to Natural England’s work, but recognise their limitations, not least that some groups of fungi, lichen and invertebrates are poorly represented in genomic databases. By helping to train our highly skilled taxonomic recorders with DNA barcoding means better records and more effective eDNA outputs.
The beautiful mountain plant, Rosy Saxifrage, has returned to the wild in Wales after becoming extinct in 1962.
This beautiful mountain plant, that once clung to the cliff edges in Eryri (Snowdonia) has successfully returned to the wild in Wales after becoming extinct in 1962.
The trial reintroduction of Rosy Saxifrage Saxifraga rosacea, led by us, marks a special moment for nature recovery. The plants, which have been maintained in cultivation, have direct lineage to the 1962 specimens.
It is now flowering at a location close to where it was last recorded in the wild – and there are plans in place to boost its numbers now the first trial has taken place.
The species was first recorded in Wales in 1796 by J.W.Griffith (Clark, 1900) and there are up to five records from the 19th century. In the 20th century, there are three records, all in Eryri.
But, it is thought that Rosy Saxifrage slipped into extinction in Wales, primarily as a result of plant enthusiasts over collecting the species, particularly in the Victorian era. Atmospheric pollution is also considered to have played a role. Rosy Saxifrage is not a great competitor with stronger growing plants, so it was impacted by the nutrient enrichment of its favoured mountain habitat.
Each and every native wild plant contributes to the diversity and health of ecosystems and putting Rosy saxifrage back where it belongs restores a lost balance.
The successful reintroduction has been led by our botanist Robbie Blackhall-Miles, Project Officer for the Tlysau Mynydd Eryri (Mountain Jewels of Eryri) conservation partnership project that aims to secure the futures of some of our rarest alpine plants and invertebrates in Wales.
The outplanting took place on land cared for by the National Trust and in future months botanists will conduct surveys to establish places where it will be best to reintroduce the species fully to the wild.
Read more about Rosy Saxifrage here.
Photographs by: Llyr Hughes
Want to start a community meadow, but not sure where to begin?
Read our guide to creating a flower-filled haven for your local community.
Creating a meadow is a really simple way to bring the local community together, whilst doing something positive for nature.
You don’t need to be an expert to start one – we’ve shared our tips for how to begin, what to plant, how to manage your green space year-round and how to engage the community.
So, what are community meadows? They are areas, predominantly of grassland, that are owned and managed by the community, such as parks, road verges, school grounds, village greens, church land or fields.
Read more: How to grow a wildflower meadow
Now you’ve decided to try and start a community meadow, it’s hard to know where to begin. We’ve got plenty of experience and advice to help you along the way.
Contact your local council – Whether it’s parish, town or district council, reaching out to your local decision makers to promote wildlife-friendly management can make a big difference. Local support can really help to bring about change, whether that’s through a volunteer group or social media page. Check out our Good Meadows Guide for some convincing arguments.
Positive perceptions – Some people might be concerned that not cutting a greenspace as regularly might make it look neglected and untidy. But, framing a greenspace by cutting narrow strips around the wildflower area can offset some negative perceptions. Other concerns about plant height for road safety can be tackled by growing shorter species, which can still support an array of pollinators such as clovers, trefoils, Selfheal and Yarrow.
Communicating at every step – Telling people what and why you are creating a meadow is crucial for understanding. By bringing the community with you and working together, it will be easier to explain the benefits of meadow making. You could write something in the local magazine, talk about your meadow-making journey on social media or put up a sign.
Community activities – Bringing the community together to help create a meadow can be very beneficial. You can run activities, join campaigns or hold events to gather momentum.
Clover in a hay meadow
Three Hagges Woodmeadow in Yorkshire
A pink orchid growing from green grass in a meadow
If you need some help funding your community meadow, these places might be able to offer support:
We hope that this helps you in creating a wonderful community meadow. Do let us know on social media when you have tried these methods and your progress in creating a meadow by tagging us.
Are you feeling inspired, but not sure where to start? Aside from Plantlife’s guidance, a great source of knowledge and personal support can be from meadow groups. A huge variety of groups exist across the country, who manage meadows for hay, livestock or community benefits. These groups could also be good places to start when searching for local seeds or advice.
If you would like to add your community meadow group to our list, please get in touch here.
It's been 25 years since a local campaign helped save Skylark Meadows.
Whether it’s your back garden, local park, community field or lawn, wildflower meadows are amazing spaces with so much to offer.
Made up of wildflowers and grasses that return every year, they can bring benefits to people, climate and a huge array of wildlife.
Meadows come to life in the spring and summer, bursting with vibrant wildflowers and buzzing with insects and animals. But species-rich grassland areas, which used to occur commonly throughout Britain, are now amongst the most threatened habitats in the UK.
Approximately 97% of wildflower meadows have been lost across the UK since the 1930s. That’s why wildflowers and meadows are not only beautiful staples of the British countryside, but also crucial habitats that need restoring.
Why are meadows so amazing?
WATCH: Not just a pretty space, this is a living space
So, the more areas that can be turned into wildflower meadows, the better things get for nature.
No matter the size of your land, the process of making a wildflower meadow is pretty much the same. Follow these steps to start your meadow-making journey:
Before sowing seed, in late summer or autumn, you must cut the grass as short as possible. The cuttings must then be removed because most meadow species thrive in nutrient-poor soil with low fertility levels. Leaving the cuttings on the grass to rot down, both stifles delicate seedlings, and adds nutrients.
This can easily be done using a strimmer or mower and the cuttings removed with a rake.
It is really important to control any problem plants that could prevent your meadow from thriving. For example, species such as Nettle, Creeping Thistle and Dock can rapidly spread and crowd wildflowers in poorly managed meadows.
To stop this, it is best to pull these plants out by hand, cut their heads before they set seed or spot spray them. Bramble and scrub will also need to be controlled before creating a meadow.
If you have lots of problem plants, it will be easier (if possible) to try and create a meadow on another piece of land.
Meadow on Dartmoor
Orchids in a meadow
A #NoMowMay garden
Bare ground is simply an area that has no plants living in it. It provides germination gaps and growing space for meadow flowers and grasses. Having about 50-70% of land as bare ground will increase your chances of creating a wildflower meadow.
This can be done by hand with vigorous raking, strimming or using a rented garden scarifier.
Sprinkle and gently trample in your seeds, which can be mixed with sand for easier spreading. During drier spells, water the ground if possible, but do not wash away the seeds.
Then, over the next few months pull up any Creeping Thistle and Dock or cut the flower heads off and remove before they set seed (these can spread fast and smother wildflowers).
Knowing a bit about your soil can also really help you to choose which seeds to sow. There are many factors that can influence what will grow including the soil type, fertility, location, weather, availability of light and what’s already growing there.
Don’t worry if your meadow looks a bit plain in its first year, many perennials take at least a couple of years to establish.
We hope that these tips help you in creating a wonderful meadow. Do share your meadow-making journey with us on social media by tagging us.
We will keep you updated by email about our work, news, campaigning, appeals and ways to get involved. We will never share your details and you can opt out at any time. Read our Privacy Notice.
