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Toolkit to help farmers access financial support

We are developing the first grassland-specific toolkit to help farmers restore more species-rich grasslands and access alternative forms of finance.

Cows grazing in a field

Species-rich grasslands can deliver enormous benefits for wildlife, biodiversity and the climate. With approximately 97% of the UK’s species-rich grassland lost in less than a century, we are working with farmers to protect and restore them.

Supporting smaller farms, with less resources, is a great opportunity to support food production and the restoration of grassland.

In this project, we will lead partners in creating a toolkit with funding from the Natural Environment Investment Readiness Fund (NEIRF) to complete the ‘Realising grassland potential: an ecosystems services toolkit for farmers’ project.

 

Ranscombe Farm Landscape

What is the project?

In this project, we will develop the first grassland-specific ecosystem services toolkit, with a focus on smaller farms. It will explore the types of grass, soil, grazing and cutting regimes and provide farmers with advice on how to engage effectively with emerging private finance opportunities – to help their transition to a more regenerative grassland management approach.

Smaller farms produce significantly lower farm business incomes, which can be a barrier to engaging in the nature market as they don’t have the resources to pay for surveys and planning. So, this toolkit will provide an accessible tool to help farmers make informed decisions.

Through this, we will also showcase how species-rich grassland can deliver ecosystem services.

a field of grass field with a variety of flowers in pink, purple, yellow and white

What will the impact be?

A mechanism, like this toolkit, will help more people understand the importance of species-rich grassland as a source of ecosystem services. It will also support farmers to more easily access funding to protect, restore, create and manage this valuable habitat.
We also hope the project will lead to greater recognition of the important role farming can play in maintaining the ecosystem functions of grasslands.
We will also be working with farmers to understand their concerns, ambitions and considerations for land use. Once completed, this toolkit will be piloted by farmers in England, which we will continue to monitor and support.

We are working in partnership to produce this toolkit with our partners Floodplain Meadows Partnership, Finance Earth, National Landscape Association and Pasture for Life. Advisory partners in the project include Nature Friendly Farming Network, Soil Association, Soil Association Exchange, Natural England and UK Centre for Ecology and Hydrology.

Logos - Plantlife, NEIRF, Defra, Ea and NE

Our grasslands work

Transforming Britain’s Road Verges
UK, GrasslandPyramidal orchid on the verge in Dorset.

Transforming Britain’s Road Verges

Plantlife is bringing about a transformation in the way Britain’s road verges are managed, with the aim of at least 50% of verges being managed as species-rich grassland.

Meadow Makers
England, GrasslandA meadow on a sunny day.

Meadow Makers

Meadow Makers is a partnership project, led by Plantlife, that restored over 400 hectares of species-rich grassland across England and involved over 12,000 people in meadow making.

Local Councils and No Mow May
UK, GrasslandClose up of wildflowers taken on verge with a road in the distance.

Local Councils and No Mow May

To restore our native wildflowers, councils need to make long-term commitments to transforming their management of road verges. Have a look at the amazing work done by local authorities.

Managing Meadows

Wildflower meadows are often a defining feature of the summer, but when managed properly they can also be a vital habitat for wildlife and nature recovery.

Take a look through our guidance on managing meadows, the equipment needed, which seeds to choose and much much more.

Wildflower meadow bursting with yellow dandelions and rolling hills in the background

Many flower-filled meadows are rich with an abundance of wild plants and fungi, but sadly grasslands are among the most threatened habitats in Britain.

Approximately 97% of the UK’s species-rich grassland has been lost since the 1930s. There are many reasons for their decline including conversion into crops and more intensive management, tree planting, development and more.

We are working with farmers, landowners and community groups to restore our grasslands and take care of meadows for the future.

Guidance

Good News – 10 Positive Ways we’ve Impacted Nature in 2024!
Snowy picture of Ranscombe Nature Reserve

Good News – 10 Positive Ways we've Impacted Nature in 2024!

For a full dose of positivity take a look through our 2024 highlights. Let's revisit the amazing ways we have helped protect nature for the future this year.

How to Find Fungi
Shaggy Inkcaps

How to Find Fungi

Getting out and looking for fungi can be a great way to connect with nature and discover more about this amazing kingdom. Here our Specialist Botanical Advisor, Sarah Shuttleworth, gives her top tips for finding fungi! 

Global Strategy for Plant Conservation adopted at COP
Global team at COP16 in Colombia

Global Strategy for Plant Conservation adopted at COP

We’re thrilled that the Global Strategy for Plant Conservation was adopted at COP16. Just returned from Cali, Colombia – our Global Advocacy Officer Claire Rumsey tells us more

What Equipment do you Need to Manage a Meadow?

Creating a meadow, but not sure what machinery is best – we have the answers for you, no matter the size of your meadow.

A man holds tools in the middle of Seaton Meadow, ready to start meadow management work
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No matter the size of your meadow – whether it’s a small lawn, a community field or acres of farmland – you will need to think about equipment.  All types of machinery have their advantages and disadvantages, but which combinations you use largely depends on the equipment you already have and the size of your meadow.  

Today, a growing number of lawns and smaller green spaces are being turned into meadows, without the aid of big machinery and livestock.  

Mowing and then removing the clippings, mimics the hay cutting and grazing cycles used on larger sites. Many spaces – including lawns, school grounds, road verges, graveyards and fields under a hectare – are being managed in this way. Follow this wheel below for a year in the life of small meadow management:  

A Year of Meadow Management

Equipment for Small Meadows and Gardens

  • Lawn Mower

    What is it used for?

    Cutting and removing grass at the end of the summer to mimic a hay cut.

    How to use it

    Best to start with the cutting blades set as high as possible and cut several times, lowering the cutting height each time.  

    Top tip

    Best if the grass box is not attached for the first couple of cuts and raked by hand after each cut.

  • Garden scarifiers

    What is it used for?

    Creating bare ground (before sowing the seed).

    How to use it

    Rake off all the dead grass and thatch after scarifying. 

    Top tip

    Suited to smaller sites such as gardens, verges and green spaces. Available through most plant and machinery hire shops.  

  • Strimmer/ brushcutters

    What is it used for?

    Annual cut of small meadows in gardens or green spaces or for creating bare ground.

    How to use it

    Strim area as short as possible and rake off all the cuttings.

    Top tip

    Can be used to create bare ground if using strimmer with a cord.

  • Hand tools (rake, scythe)

    What is it used for?

    Creating bare ground and managing small meadows .

    How to use it

    A metal rake can be used to remove clippings after the grass has been cutA soil rake is good for removing building up of mossy thatch at the base. 

    Top tip

    Remove all  the raked material before it rots down and the nutrients enrich the soil.

  • Allen (pedestrian) scythes

    What is it used for?

    Cutting large meadows that are too small for farm machinery or have limited access.

    How to use it

    These are also useful where steep slopes preclude any ride-on machinery.

    Top tip

    Available through most plant and machinery hire shops. 

Equipment for field-scale meadows

This machinery is designed to fit on the back of a tractor and for field-scale meadow management for sites bigger than one hectare. As a farmer or landowner, it is likely that you will have this equipment readily available, but this guidance will help with the best ways of utilising it for meadow creation. If not, nearby farmers or land managers might be able to help you out with borrowing equipment.  

All of these types of the equipment should be used in conditions that are not too wet or too dry, to avoid damage and compaction to the soil.

  • Tine Harrows

    What is it used for?

    Useful for pulling out thatch, particularly in ungrazed meadows. Ideally before creating bare ground for sowing wildflowers in a field with existing grass – or if problem plants exist just use this. 

    How to use it

    They pull out the thatch of dead grass and moss that can build up in meadows, to expose the bare ground. Remember to keep the tines clear so that they function at their best.

    Note that it’s often most effective to overlap half way onto each previous strip, so that all areas receive a double-harrow pass. Also consider passing again in the opposite direction.

    Top tip

    They work well in sites which have previously had problem plants – because they only scratch the surface and are less likely to awaken seeds from the past.  This should be done when the soil is neither too dry nor too wet, and when weather is mild.

  • Power Harrows

    What is it used for?

    Creating a lot of bare ground, quickly.  

    How to use it

    Care must be taken not to power the harrow too deepaim for a setting of no more than 1” deep, not a standard agricultural operation.

    Top tip

    They must only be used in meadows already with very short grass and lacking problem plants present recently or seed bank This should be done when the soil is neither too dry nor too wet, and when weather is mild.

  • Chain Harrows

    What is it used for?

    These tools are best used for creating bare ground.

    How to use it

    They work best on slightly soft ground with very short grass.  

    Top tip

    They are less effective than power or tine harrows, so the meadow will need to be chain-harrowed several times.  This should be done when the soil is neither too dry nor too wet, and when weather is mild.

  • Disc or drum mowers

    What is it used for?

    Cutting meadows, as part of the hay making process.  

     

  • Hay turners (hay bob)

    What is it used for?

    It is used for spreading grass around the meadow.

    How to use it

    The grass is spread around the meadow, to aid drying during hay making.  

    Top tip

    Can be used for spreading green hay out if this is used as a seed source for meadow creation.  

  • Balers (square or round)

    What is it used for?

    Baling the hay in traditional hay meadow management.   

    How to use it

    Collects previously cut, turned, dried long grass/hay, and shapes it into compact large rounds or small squares. 

    Top tip

    Round balers need the bales to be moved by a tractor, whereas small square bales can be easily moved by hand.  

  • Flail collectors

    What is it used for?

    These tools are used for cutting and collecting at the same time.

    How to use it

    Cutting and removing the annual grass growth in a meadow where it’s not possible to make hay. 

    Top tip

    They are increasingly being used to manage road verges and smaller meadows, where it is not practical to make hay or graze livestock.  

  • Straw choppers

    What is it used for?

    Straw choppers are used for spreading green hay bales out.

  • Muck spreader

    What is it used for?

    A much spreader is used for spreading green hay.

    How to use it

    To use a muck spreader, drive slowly across the field.

    Top tip

    Green hay should be spread as quickly as possible, to avoid over heating. 

More Meadow Guidance

How to Manage a Meadow

Wildflower meadows can sometimes take a while to really bloom, but with careful management, it’s definitely worth the wait. 

Read on to learn how to manage a meadow and about different meadow types.

A meadow full of yellow flowers, a blue sky and lush green trees
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So, you’ve started growing wildflowers on your land or community meadow – but how do you help this flower-filled show return every year?

Wildflower meadows can take a while to really bloom, but following these simple steps will ensure your meadow thrives with beautiful and diverse plants again and again. The essentials for every meadow are sun, soil, some rain and management – and while the equipment can vary, the processes are similar regardless of the size of your meadow.

There are 6 main things to think about (in chronological order):

Creeping thistle - Cirsium arvense
  • Controlling problem plants – While all plants are of some value to wildlife, some species can rapidly spread and be detrimental to wildflowers. It’s best to keep an eye on problem plants like thistles, docks and ragwort. Many need the controlling work to be done in early summer.
  • Take a hay-cut (or cut-and-clear) in July – Timing depends on where you are in the country (hay is ready to cut earlier in the warmer south), and what proportion of tall, large-leaved grasses you have in your meadow.  Taking a cut while the grass is tall and hasn’t yet set seed helps to control grass dominance.  In small meadows you can cut around the most flower-rich areas.
  • Cutting or gazing in the autumn – When the weather is mild, the grass will still grow, so this helps keep grasses at bay and allows the wildflowers to thrive. Most meadows will need cutting at the end of July and will then need to have the cuttings removed after about a week to allow some time for the seed to drop. Long grasses will enrich the soil, and further inhibit wildflower growth by stifling new growth.
A grazing sheep looks up at Ryewater Farm
  • Looking after the ground – It’s good to keep an eye on the ground and avoid damaging and compacting it with frequent passes by heavy machinery or too much trampling, especially when the ground is wet.
  • Patience – By following our meadow management guidance, any open grassy area (which isn’t too fertile or dominated with problem plants) can become a wildflower-rich meadow if given enough time.
  • Animals – Even though this isn’t possible for most garden owners, if you can bring animals onto your small field or community meadow (from September to February), they can really help. As livestock will bring seeds in their dung, try to make sure they have come from a meadow without many problem plants. Their hooves will create spaces for seeds to take, and can help to restore the soil life (invertebrates and micro-organisms). As long as the animals are not fed anything extra such as hay, their grazing will lift nutrients from the system which benefits many wildflowers, giving them the competitive advantage over tall grasses. But you don’t have to own cows or sheep to create a meadow. By cutting and mowing at the right time, you can make a meadow in a garden, park, community space or road verge.

What is a Meadow?

A traditional meadow is a field or grassy area where the grasses and wildflowers are allowed to grow unhindered until they are cut, usually for hay, in the late summer.

A meadow or pasture? Just as the word woodland is used to describe many types of wood, we now often use the word meadow to describe many different types of flower-rich grassy places. This includes pastures, which are maintained by grazing. The grass is kept in balance by careful grazing with a small number of animals which are moved around throughout the year. This extensive grazing allows pastures and grasslands to support abundant flowers without a hay cut.

Types of pastures:

  • Dry, acidic soils, acid grasslands are some of the most common pastures – although they are relatively species poor
  • Dry, lime or chalk-rich soils, chalk downland, sandy dunes and limestone grassland are all grazing pasture. They can be exceptionally rich in flowers and are some of our most species-rich habitats of all
  • Wet soil, rush pastures are home to their own special plants – including Devil’s-bit Scabious and Ragged Robin as well many sedges and rushes.

Types of Meadows

A wildflower meadow in summer filled with flowers

Lowland Neutral Meadow


When we imagine a flower-rich hay meadow we are usually thinking about a lowland neutral meadow. Neutral meadows, with a mixture of grasses and flowers reaching knee to waist-high in summer, are rooted in soil that’s neither too acidic nor too alkaline.

Plants to spot – Cowslip, Oxeye Daisy, Buttercup, Scabious, Betony, Clover, Vetch, Knapweed and Lady’s Bedstraw.

These meadows can support magnificent displays of orchids, especially Green-winged Orchid and Common Spotted-orchid. Yellow Rattle and eyebrights also play a crucial role by helping to keep the grass down. Thanks to these species and the infertile soil, the delicate grasses (like Sweet Vernal Grass, Quaking Grass and Crested Dog’s-tail) allow plenty of room for wildflowers to grow.

Go and explore lowland wet and dry meadow at Three Hagges Woodmeadow Nature Reserve.

Lugg Meadow

Floodplain Meadow


On wetter soils where rivers break their banks in winter, floodplain meadows develop where the soil is deeper and more fertile. This habitat supports quite tall and lush vegetation.

Plants to spot – Cuckooflower, Ragged Robin, Meadowsweet, Great Burnet, Snake’s-head Fritillary and Meadow Foxtail.

In slightly wetter spots, Amphibious Bistort and Marsh Marigold can thrive and in ancient floodplain meadows with less fertile soils delicate pepper saxifrage can be supported.

Go and explore floodplain meadow at Lugg Meadow Nature Reserve in Herefordshire or Long Herdon and Grange Meadows in Buckinghamshire.

A meadow of daisies and orchids with a leafy woodlands in the background

Upland Hay Meadow


In areas of northern Britain, upland hay meadows thrive with very distinctive flora, providing a home for hundreds of plants species, that not only help wildflowers, but also local wildlife. At peak times, these traditional meadows are full of life – from bees and butterflies to birds and small mammals.

Although not as species-rich as their lowland counterparts, they can be truly spectacular.

Plants to spot – Wood Crane’s-bill, Melancholy Thistle, Bistort, Great Burnet, Buttercup, Red Clover, Yellow Rattle and Eyebright.

The colourful tapestry of hay meadows is often softened by the white frothy flowers of Pignut and rarely, species of Lady’s Mantle nestle among the grasses.

Go and explore neutral hay meadow at Caeau Tan y Bwlch in Gwynedd or
hay meadow at Joan’s Hill Farm Nature Reserve in Herefordshire.

Purple Moor-grass Rush Pasture


Also known as culm grassland in south-west England and Rhôs pasture in Wales, Purple Moor-grass Rush pasture is found on poorer soils in western areas.

Plants to spot – Purple Moor-grass, Rush, Ragged-Robin, Devil’s-bit Scabious, Whorled Caraway, Lesser Spearwort, Sneezewort and Marsh Orchid.

This is a particularly good habitat for other wildlife including reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates and breeding wading birds.

Flower-rich pasture meadows were once a common feature of grazing land, but today only a tiny fraction remain. These vibrant and beautiful grasslands were traditionally used for keeping small herds of cows or horses. A lot of pasture across the UK has been agriculturally ‘improved’ by draining, ploughing, fertilising and reseeding. This means many of these sites have lost most of their ecological integrity. Wildflowers often struggle because the nutrient levels are higher, and the underground fungal networks and seed banks will largely be absent due to ploughing and chemical treatment. Flower-rich pasture meadows can be managed with livestock or cutting.

Go and explore neutral pasture at Cae Blaen-dyffryn Nature Reserve in Carmarthenshire or Culm grassland at Greena Moor in Cornwall.

Chalk Downland and Limestone Grassland


Some of the most spectacular wildflower habitats can be found on well drained, alkaline soil that develops on top of chalk and limestone rocks. This grassland can support an astonishing 50 species in a single square metre.

Plants to spot – Wild Thyme, Lady’s Bedstraw, Salad Burnet, Common Rockrose, Marjoram, Harebell and Small Scabious.

But in fact, it’s the rare and unusual flowers that make these meadows so exciting including Orchid, Gentian, Milkwort, Vetch and Pasqueflower.

Go and explore limestone pasture at Winskill Stones Nature Reserve in north Yorkshire or chalk grassland at Ranscombe Farm in Kent.

Sweet Vernal Grass in the sunshine

Acid grassland


One of our most widespread, but perhaps unappreciated grasslands is acid grassland. They can be found on acid soils of hills, mountains and fells, as well as overlying acidic lowland rocks such as sandstone and shale.

Plants to spot  – Tormentil, Heath Bedstraw, Mouse-eared Hawkweed, Heath Milkwort and  Sheep’s Sorrel.

Grasses such as Bent, Fescue, Early Hair-grass, Heath-grass, Sweet Vernal Grass, Mat-grass and Wavy Hair-grass.

Occasionally other wildflowers like Heath Spotted-orchid, Betony and Autumn Hawkbit can be seen in abundance, as well as patches of Harebell.

Managing Hay Meadows

Timings can vary, but hay meadows need cutting when the grass is high and ripe. To help local insects, it is good to leave an unmown strip around the edge of your meadow as a forage and refuge resource for birds and invertebrates. For smaller grassy areas the hay meadow can be cut with a mower and for larger community meadows or pony paddocks, a tractor with a drum or disc mower can be used.

When possible, bringing animals in to graze the new grass a few weeks after cutting can really help wildflowers. Normally the livestock need to be removed by the end of February to allow flowers like cuckooflower and cowslip to bloom, and the seedlings of Yellow Rattle to get going. The meadow should then be left alone throughout spring and summer or until most of the plants have flowered and set seed.

A year of Meadow Management

Arweiniad

How a Community Saved their Local Meadows for Nature

It’s been 25 years since a local campaign helped save Skylark Meadows, we look back at this positive story of people protecting nature.

A group of people admiring Skylark Meadows, full of wildflowers

What happened 25 years ago?

This year marks 25 years since the stunning Skylark Meadows in Somerset first became a protected Plantlife nature reserve – thanks to the local community who rallied to save it.

Back in 1997, news broke that the farmer who had owned and managed the land as a traditional hay meadow was looking to retire and sell the 18-acre patch that had become a haven, not only for plant and animal wildlife, but for the local residents as well. With the future of the meadows in jeopardy, the community organised an appeal to raise the funds needed to buy it.

Donald Rayner from Bawdrip, one of the residents instrumental to saving the site, remembered the day he first realised how special the meadows were: “My friends had started without me, so I set off after them across what we now call Skylark Meadows. They were ahead, and I was alone in the fields. I heard skylarks where they simply shouldn’t be. I knew I’d come across something special.”

Long grasses photographed in the species rich Skylark Meadows

The Skylark Meadows Rescue group was born

With a race against time on their hands, the community formed the Skylark Meadows Rescue Group. Local resident Pam Earnshaw was instrumental in heading up the campaign, hosting group meetings and working hard to raise the funds needed to secure its future.

When the appeal first launched, Bob Cornes from English Nature visited the site and was quoted as saying: “It was immediately obvious to me that this was a 50-species meadow. That puts it in the top echelon of conservation sites.”

The group had worked hard and raised a good sum, but they were still short. In 1999, they reached out to us at Plantlife and we stepped in to cover the additional costs and purchase Skylark Meadows. It has been officially protected as a nature reserve ever since.

Speaking of the success of the campaign, Donald said: “It provides a positive example of community achievement here and everywhere.”

Beautiful Cuckooflowers spotted in Skylark Meadows Nature Reserve

What can you find at Skylark Meadows?

The site is home to a range of plants, grasses and wildflowers. These include Yellow Rattle Rhinanthus minor, Common Knapweed Centaurea nigra, Oxeye Daisy Leucanthemum vulgare, Pepper Saxifrage Silaum silaus and the hay meadow speciality Corky-fruited Water-dropwort Oenanthe pimpinelloides.

As well as the rich variety of plants, the meadows provide a habitat for animal wildlife. The skylarks from which the meadows get their name, can still be seen and heard overhead. Old hedgerows provide a safe haven for birds like whitethroats and linnets as well as mammals including badgers and foxes. Barn owls nest in the owl boxes, brown hares and roe deer have both also been spotted in the meadows.

Finally, the variety in beautiful wildflowers every year attracts an array of pollinators, in particular butterflies.

The community is still involved, helping to care for Skylark Meadows

The community looks after the nature reserve

Many of the locals who were involved in the original campaign have maintained strong connections to the site, including Donald.

“I help with the monitoring of the owl boxes with the HOT group [Hawk and Owl Trust], and try to keep the water trough clean when not in use etc,” he said.

Since taking ownership of the site, we have expanded the original two meadows by purchasing a third field to add to the nature reserve. We have been continuing to manage the whole site using traditional hay meadow methods.

Donald said: “It has increased from 18 acres to 24 acres by allowing the field to west to be obtained then managed in the same traditional hay meadow routine i.e. cut only [once a year] then grazed September to winter then left to regrow without any form of ‘artificial’ or natural growth aids. Thus protecting the needs of the meadow flora.”

One of the nesting barn owls at Skylark Meadows

Skylark Meadows 25 years later

The nature reserve now encompasses the original two unimproved grassland meadows that we purchased back in 1999, as well as a former silage field which we added to the reserve in 2003.

The original meadows have never had fertiliser or heavy machinery used on them and have always been maintained using traditional hay meadow methods. We have continued these methods and incorporated them into managing the third newer field as well – though it takes many years to restore meadowland.

We manage the meadows by cutting only once a year and then introducing grazing in the late summer and early autumn.

Old hedgerows of Hawthorn Crataegus and Blackthorn Prunus spinosa and lovely Crack Willow Salix fragilis trees have been managed with pollarding  (cut low on the trunk to harvest regenerating branches and encourage regrowth).

For 25 years, and for the future, the meadows remain protected for the community and nature.

Donald said: “It offers all ages a chance to enjoy bird song, flowers and open land in a large landscape of natural features. Children visit from the school and the footpaths provide an opportunity for all to visit, learn and enjoy from all over the country.”

The purchase of this meadow was made possible with help from Unilever (Timotei), Somerset Wildlife Trust, the Environment Agency, Sedgemoor District Council, Gerber Foods, Wyvern Environmental Trust, the Charles Hayward Trust and the community through the Skylark Meadows Rescue Group.

What are problem plants?

While most plants have some value to wildlife, species such as Common Nettle Urtica dioica, thistles Cirsium sp and docks Rumex sp can spread rapidly in meadows or lawns with sub-optimal management and crowd out wildflowers. Small amounts of these species are natural in any grassland, especially along boundaries or corners, large amounts of them can indicate a problem.

However, large swathes of thistles or nettles will result in less space for a diversity of other flowering plants, which could result in a meadow being less valuable for wildlife. Also be aware that an area that has alot of these problem plants already, is usually best avoided altogether if attempting to make a new meadow area.

Preventing problem plants establishing in large numbers is better than a cure . It is best to:

  • Maintain well-managed meadows/grassland vegetation with few gaps
  • Avoid heavy use of the ground during wet weather that could leave areas bare, and avoid scalping by using a low mowing blade on sodden grass
  • Not add nutrients through fertilisers or manure as these problem plants thrive in nutrient-high conditions

 

Problem plant species

Broad-leaved Dock

Dock


Broad-leaved Dock Rumex obtusifolius can grow up to 120cm tall and has wide lower leaves that are slightly wavy-edged. The upper leaves on the flowering stem are narrower. The leaves may be slightly red tinged.

Curled Dock Rumex crispus is like Broad-leaved Dock but has narrower leaves tapered into the stem with strongly crisped edges. Docks are an important plant for a range of insects such as capsids, weevils, beetles, spiders and many other insects.

Thistle


Spear Thistle Cirsium vulgare is a biennial plant, forming a rosette of spiny and sharply toothed leaves in the first year and producing large purple flowering heads in the second year.

Creeping Thistle Cirsium arvense is perennial with wavy-toothed leaves that have slender spines and smaller purple flower heads.

 

Common-ragwort

Common Ragwort


Common Ragwort Jacobaea vulgaris is a biennial member of the Daisy family. Its seed germinates in the autumn producing a rosette of leaves. During the second year, the plant sends up flowering shoots which have multiple yellow flowers.

Common Ragwort is known to support more than 129 other species of invertebrates and has enormous value for wildlife. It acts as a nectar source for pollinators as well as some larvae of flies and beetles which feed on the inside of the flower head. The caterpillars of the cinnabar moth eat Common Ragwort acting as a natural biological control agent. In addition, 14 species of fungi use ragwort as their host.

Common nettle

Common Nettle


Common Nettle Urtica dioica is a coarsely hairy plant with stinging hairs that have a histamine-containing juice. Plants are dioecious – male or female. It has far-creeping underground rhizomes which can spread creating large clumps of common nettle.

It is an important plant for a range of insects such as ladybirds, damselflies, capsids, weevils, beetles, and spiders. Young nettles are the food plant of many moth larvae such as the snout, dot, burnished brass and younger mother-of-pearl and butterflies such as the peacock, small tortoiseshell and comma.

Why are these plants a problem?

Many of them have seeds that are very fertile and spread on the wind, usually dropping far away from the parent plant. A single Common Ragwort plant can produce up to 200,000 seeds, and these can lie dormant in the soil for as long as 20 years. Common Ragwort is also a problem in particular for livestock as the plant contains toxic alkaloids which act as a cumulative poison eventually destroying an animal’s liver.

Some species also have rhizomatous roots that are spreading meaning that they form dense clumps in grassland. Accidently breaking up the roots when removing certain species creates larger clumps as even small bits of root can grow into plants and can remain dormant in the soil for years. For example, Creeping Thistle can create a 20- metre patch in just two years from a small bit of root left in the ground.

 

Spear Thistle, Creeping Thistle, Broad-leaved Dock, Curled Dock and Common Ragwort are classified under the Weeds Act 1959, under which orders can be made requiring their control to help prevent their spread. So, controlling populations of these two species should be undertaken to manage the extent of clumps as total elimination is unlikely to be achievable or desirable.

ragwort

How to manage problem plants

All methods of managing problem plants need patience above all else. Most often it can take years before problem plants are brought back under control.

Essentially pulling by hand is going to be the simplest and least invasive way of managing most of them, or simply cutting the heads off the plants before they flower or set seed for others. However, if you have large numbers of plants and are unable to physically remove them, then spot-spraying can be used. We would always recommend consulting an expert for suitable and available herbicides that will affect the specified problem plants and how to apply the chemicals safely. Spraying is usually most effective early in the season (May or June) before the plants’ flowers are developed. When found along the edge of watercourses, there are additional concerns about using herbicides.

It is important to take care when digging to remove some species, as Creeping Thistle for example can spread further if fragments of roots are left in the soil, whereas digging and removing Spear Thistle is not a problem.

In a well-managed sward, Common Ragwort seldom gets the chance to establish. Pulling and digging is often the most effective control method. Hand tools can be used to make the job easier such as a ‘lazy dog tool’ and a ‘rag-fork’. Gloves must be worn! This method should be done early in the summer before the flower heads mature with best results when the soil is wet. This enables the whole plant to be removed as small bits of root left in the soil can grow becoming new plants. Roots are more likely to break in dry ground potentially creating a larger problem with a halo of new plants around the removed parent plant. Cutting can be used as a method, however it is essential to cut before seed heads are mature and this must be followed with another control technique. Cutting may stimulate the growth of side shoots and vigorous growth in the following year.

Common Nettle is usually best managed through cutting by mechanical means such as a tractor-mounted cutter, strimmer or by hand, using a scythe. This method is best used where infestations of Common Nettle are small, bird nesting is not an issue, equipment and labour are available and where total control is neither desirable nor necessary. Repeated cutting combined with close mowing of the area will weaken Common Nettles and allow the grass to successfully compete over a period of years.

Some other species not considered problem plants

  • Thistles

    There are other species of thistles that are not considered problem plants, such as:

    • Marsh Thistle Cirsium palustre often found in damper grassland
    • Dwarf Thistle Cirsium acaule and Woolly Thistle Cirsium eriophorum often found in calcareous grassland and
    • Melancholy Thistle Cirsium heterophyllum which is present in the north of England, northern Wales and Scotland in grasslands and along roads and footpaths
  • Dock

    There are other Dock species that are present in grassland and are not considered problem plants in the legislation. These include:

    • Common Sorrel Rumex acetosa
    • Sheep’s Sorrel Rumex acetosella (both of which are identified as positive indicators of grassland condition)
  • Ragwort

    There are other Ragwort species that are present in grassland and are not considered problem plants in the legislation. For example:

    • Marsh Ragwort Jacobaea aquatica
    • Hoary Ragwort Jacobaea erucifolia
    • Oxford Ragwort Senecio squalidus

More Meadow Making tips

How to control Problem Plants like Thistles and Nettles
Common nettle

How to control Problem Plants like Thistles and Nettles

Managing or making meadows, whether in a lawn or larger site, can sometimes lead to prickly problem plants like docks or nettles. Follow our expert advice for managing problem plants.

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker
Yellow Rattle in a hay meadow

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker

Yellow Rattle, is the single most important plant you need when creating a wildflower meadow. Here’s everything you need to know.

How to Start a Community Meadow?

How to Start a Community Meadow?

Want to start a community meadow, but not sure where to begin? Read our guide to creating a flower-filled haven for your local community.

Yellow rattle, commonly known as the meadow maker, is one of the most important plants you need for a meadow. Without it, vigorous grasses can grow unchecked and smother flowers you want to encourage.

As Yellow Rattle Rhinanthus minor grows in a meadow the grass will become thinner, making room for plants like Oxeye Daisy, Knapweeds and Vetches to appear. And if you’re lucky, maybe even an orchid will pop up.

Yellow rattle close up

The Life Cycle (a year) of Yellow Rattle:

  • The seeds germinate in early spring and grow quickly
  • As the roots develop, it seeks out the roots of plants growing nearby, especially grasses
  • Once it makes contact, Yellow Rattle draws water and nutrients from the nearby plants
  • This leaves space for flowers to grow

Then large bees, especially bumblebees, move in and pollinate the flowers of yellow rattle and it’s large seed pods dry and ripen. This leaves the seeds rattling around inside. Farmers used to use the sound of the rattling seeds as their cue to cut the hay – hence the name.

How to grow Yellow Rattle?

Yellow Rattle is a very useful starting plant when making a wildflower meadow, but it can be a little tricky to establish. Here are some top tips to get you started:

1. Getting some seed

  • Yellow Rattle seeds are very short lived so they must be sown as fresh as possible and ideally will have been harvested in the most recent summer
  • You can pop over to the Plantlife shop to buy some
  • Or even better, if you know somewhere locally with Yellow Rattle, then ask if you can collect some seed
  • Seeds are collected by picking the stems (on a dry day) and shaking them into a paper bag
  • The seeds must be collected between June and August – once ripe they will begin to fall to the ground so there’s only a short window of opportunity! Ripeness is dependent on the summer weather and is likely to be soonest in the warmest parts of the country such as the south east.

     

2. Planting the seed

  • Firstly, you must prepare the area – cut the grass as short as you can between July and September and remove the clippings
  • There may be a layer of dead grass, which should be removed by raking through the area with a soil rake, to expose some bare soil throughout – this is crucial so the seed can reach the surface of the soil, and won’t be choked as a seedling
  • The seeds can then be sown by hand by scattering
  • This needs to be done by November at the latest, because the seeds need about 4 months below 5C to germinate in the spring

3. Watch it grow

  • Seedlings will start to appear in the spring, from as early as late February. But there is no need to worry if only a few plants germinate in the first year as they will shed seed and numbers should rapidly increase
  • The wildflower meadow should be cut once the Yellow Rattle has shed its seed – between July and August. Cutting times will vary depending on where you live and the seasons
  • In a garden, cutting the grass and removing the clippings once or twice before December ensures Yellow Rattle has the space to germinate and grow by February

If you have very fertile soil, it might be trickier to grow Yellow Rattle. Poor and infertile soils are best and following the steps above will help reduce the fertility of your soil over time.

FAQ

  • 1. When should I sow Yellow Rattle?

    Late summer (August-September) is the best time to sow Yellow Rattle. It will not grow successfully if sown in the spring. The seeds can be sown no later than November because they need about 4 months below 5C to germinate in the spring.

  • 2. How do I collect my own Yellow Rattle seed?

    Yellow Rattle is easy to collect by hand. Simply hold a paper bag under the ripe seed pod and shake it gently with your fingers. Collecting larger quantities can easily be done using a vacuum or leaf blower.

    WATCH: Plantlife’s Sarah Shuttleworth collects Yellow Rattle with a vacuum. 

  • 3. Why has Yellow Rattle disappeared from my meadow?

    There are a number of reasons why Yellow Rattle may disappear from a meadow, including:

    • Cutting before the rattle has set seed
    • Leaving the cuttings on the meadow
    • Grazing in early spring when the seedlings are out and vulnerable
    • The meadow is too fertile
    • Grass is out-competing the Yellow Rattle
  • 4. How much Yellow Rattle should I sow?

    For meadows, we recommend 0.5-2.5kg per hectare/10-20g per m2 if you are collecting your own seed.

  • 5. Why hasn’t my Yellow Rattle geminated?

    There are several possible reasons:

    • The seeds were more than a year old (we advise buying from a reputable supplier).
    • Not enough bare ground was created before sowing. It is best to create at least 50% bare ground.
    • The meadow was too fertile and the grasses out competed the rattle.
    • Rattle was sown at the wrong time of year (sowing in the late summer is best). If sown in the spring it should have been stored damp mixed with sand at 4C for 6 –12 weeks.
    • The grass was too long in the early spring, when the rattle germinates. Cutting the meadow in February and removing the clippings can help. This gives the rattle seedlings a better head-start when competing for light with the surrounding grasses.

     

More meadow making tips

How to control Problem Plants like Thistles and Nettles
Common nettle

How to control Problem Plants like Thistles and Nettles

Managing or making meadows, whether in a lawn or larger site, can sometimes lead to prickly problem plants like docks or nettles. Follow our expert advice for managing problem plants.

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker
Yellow Rattle in a hay meadow

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker

Yellow Rattle, is the single most important plant you need when creating a wildflower meadow. Here’s everything you need to know.

How to Start a Community Meadow?

How to Start a Community Meadow?

Want to start a community meadow, but not sure where to begin? Read our guide to creating a flower-filled haven for your local community.

Every No Mow May lawn is different and perhaps that’s what makes them so beautiful. But we are all connected by a common goal…to leave space for nature.

Thank you to everyone who has taken part in No Mow May, we hope you’ve enjoyed watching your gardens and green spaces bloom. Whether you left your whole garden to grow, kept a section short, had a go at growing a wildflower meadow or just left a space to grow wild – it all makes a difference.

We’ve absolutely loved looking through all the pictures you’ve sent in and following your #NoMowMay journeys on social media. Please keep them coming!

Why do we do No Mow May?

Since the 1930s, we’ve lost approximately 97% of flower-rich meadows and with them gone are vital food needed by pollinators like bees and butterflies.

And with 1 in 5 British wildflowers under threat, it more important than ever to change the way we manage our gardens. A healthy lawn or green space with some long grass and wildflowers benefits wildlife, tackles pollution and can even lock away carbon below ground.

There are more than 20 million gardens in the UK, so even the smallest grassy patches can add up to a significant proportion of land which, if managed properly, can deliver enormous gains for nature, communities and the climate.

Here are some of our favourite No Mow May-ers from 2024!

Still time to join the No Mow May movement

Every year we call for people, communities and councils to get involved in #NoMowMay – and you still can this year.

Even though we’re approaching June, you can still join the movement and register your green space. This helps us to better understand how much green space across the UK is growing wild. So please sign up and help us give nature the boost it deserves in 2024 (you’ll even be added to our interactive No Mow May map!).

And the buzz doesn’t have to stop there. If you are able to, why not carry on and do Let it Bloom June.

Grassland wildlife comes in different flavours and incorporating different grass lengths into your garden can be wonderful for wildflowers and wildlife alike. Take a look at our top tips for building on the success of No Mow May.

The wildlife are loving #NoMowMay too

More on No Mow May

No lawn? No problem: 5 ways to join in with No Mow May

No lawn? No problem: 5 ways to join in with No Mow May

As well as bringing back the bloom to our lawns, there are many ways you can get involved with No Mow May, even if you don’t have a garden.

Go Wild in the Garden with these Gardening Jobs
A blossoming garden lawn full of wildflower

Go Wild in the Garden with these Gardening Jobs

If you want to create a home for wildlife in your garden, here’s a couple of nature-friendly gardening jobs to inspire you. If you create the right space, nature will come.

Wildlife to Spot in Your No Mow May Lawn 
A Cinnabar Moth rests on a long blade of lawn grass, image by Pip Gray

Wildlife to Spot in Your No Mow May Lawn 

It’s not just wildflowers which benefit from not mowing our lawns this May. Pollinators and other wildlife bring our gardens to life!

Fen Orchid Programme

After a decade of research and partnership work on Fen Orchids we now believe that the orchid could finally be removed from the Red Lists for both England and Great Britain.

How the programme started

This programme began when Plantlife was invited, in 2007, to join the Fen Orchid partnership in England, led then by Norfolk Wildlife Trust under the Species Recovery Programme (funded by Natural England, then English Nature).

The Trust were Lead Partners for fen orchid in England under the English Biodiversity Action Planning structures then in force.

In 2008, the Trust asked if Plantlife could take over as lead partner. At that point, fen orchid had only been known in 3 sites in England since 1975 and the population had never been known to reach 1000 plants.

Main Work Threads

We accepted that invitation and set about reviewing and revising the conservation programme, following five main threads:

  • Monitoring existing populations
  • Searching for lost and new populations
  • Ecological study
  • Experimental management
  • Reintroduction

Working in Partnership

As with with most of Plantlife’s work  and conservation programmes, the fen orchid programme always has been a partnership effort, with different organisations fulfilling different roles.

We acknowledge the excellent habitat management work undertaken by

  • Norfolk Wildlife Trust
  • RSPB
  • The Suffolk Wildlife Trust at former sites

The programme would not function without the financial, technical and moral support provided by organisations like

  • Broads Authority
  • Norfolk County Council
  • Natural England

We also appreciate the technical expertise and resources contribution to the reintroduction programme provided by:

  • The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
  • Cambridge University Botanic Garden

The Work

Since 2008, Plantlife’s role has been, under the English Species Recovery Programme, to:

  • Undertaken annual counts of fen orchids at a number of sites
  • Act as a data hub for counts, receiving information from other recorders
  • Researched the ecology of fen orchid, here and abroad
  • Search former sites for populations thought to have vanished, and encourage others to do the same
  • Provide management advice for site managers
  • Provide monitoring guidance, including estimation protocols for site managers
  • Assess former East Anglian sites for potential for reintroduction
  • Undertake three reintroductions, one of which survives seven years on
  • Publish what we have learnt of fen orchid ecology, and …
  • Lead the partnership

What have we achieved

The record of the partnership speaks for itself: since 2009, the population of fen orchids in England has climbed year on year.

From fewer than 1000 plants at three sites to an estimated 17,000 plants (in 2023) at seven sites.

The aim of the conservation programme has always been to reduce the Threat Status (as assessed by the English Vascular Plant Red List group) of fen orchid, and, if possible, to reduce the Threat level to Least Concern.

This is a challenging ambition but a recent re-assessment has shown that we are very close to our goal.

This is essentially due to the increase in the number of known English sites combined with consistent population expansion over the last 15 years.

This re-assessment applies also at Great Britain  level, although recovery in Wales has been less rapid.  Work there by Bridgend Council and Natural Resources Wales has produced very favourable results and Plantlife are proud that we contributed to a partnership that found funding for large scale dune restoration work there.

If you’re taking part in No Mow May this year, then your garden will be well on its way to becoming a beautiful, biodiverse haven for nature. But there is a bonus to helping the wildflowers grow – as you allow lawn to become meadow, your garden becomes your very own carbon store, helping to reduce your carbon footprint.

When carbon sequestration is mentioned, most minds turn to trees. As a society we are more aware than ever before of the role of woodlands in combatting climate change and creating a space for nature. Much less discussed is the remarkable and equally vital role our grasslands and meadows can play in increasing biodiversity and capturing and storing carbon from the atmosphere.  

How do grasslands store carbon?

Wildflowers growing in a meadow with cattle behind

When we create healthy grasslands and meadows by mowing or grazing livestock, we are simply replicating the activity of the herds of large wild herbivores that once moved across our hills and valleys. These habitats – if the grazing is gentle, infrequent and low intensity – recreate prehistoric landscapes and provide a home for our wild plants, insects, birds and fungi. Natural and semi-natural grasslands (meaning those that are farmed but in a traditional, less intensive manner) improve the quality of our water, prevent flooding and help increase the resilience of farming to summer droughts. 

This grassland – and the healthy soil beneath it – also has an incredible and little-known potential to lock away atmospheric carbon. Soil carbon is a particularly valuable store; it is far more stable and long lasting than the carbon in trees, which is vulnerable to forest fires, pests and disease.

As plants live and grow, carbon from the atmosphere is drawn down into the plants’ roots, where the myriad creatures in the soil make use of it, locking it away beneath the ground. As the diversity of plants on the surface increases, so does the diversity of microorganisms, fungi and invertebrates beneath it. The more diverse the soil life, the richer the entire ecosystem – and the more carbon the soil can store.

The role of Mycorrhizal fungi

The almost mystical role of mycorrhizal fungi is now well known. They connect roots to the nutrients in the soil, trading sugars that plants and trees create from sunlight with locked away minerals the fungi extract from the soil. We now know that plants and trees can communicate through these fungal networks, alerting them to pests and diseases and passing nutrients to others in need.

Meadow on Dartmoor

Mycorrhizal fungi have another important role – they are critical in the ability of plants to transfer carbon to the soil. In areas of farmland, meadow and garden where the soil is ploughed, fertilised or dominated by a small number of grass species, these mycorrhizal networks are much less effective – with fewer species and a lower carbon storage potential. When we look after our farmland and gardens with care, mowing and grazing infrequently and gently, avoiding ploughing and pesticides, we nurture our mycorrhizal fungi, helping the soil to become a more potent carbon store.

How does No Mow May help?

By taking part in No Mow May, you will not only begin to create a home for wildflowers and insects, you will also create healthier soils that nourish your garden plants – and reduce your carbon footprint in the process.

England alone has around 640,000 hectares of private garden. If just a quarter of this area was transformed into wildflower rich meadow – by mowing just once or twice a year and collecting the cuttings – then these garden soils could potentially capture and store an additional amount of carbon equivalent to more than 3 million average cars’ annual emissions within a spade’s depth, and well over 10 million cars in soils as deep as one meter*.

A blossoming garden lawn full of wildflower

Lawns and gardens are of course just one part of the puzzle – the UK’s farmed grassland landscape offers tremendous potential for us to sequester carbon, while also protecting agriculture and biodiversity.

Farmers and landowners have a fundamental role to play – combining food production with sustainable grasslands that lock away carbon in healthy, ecologically rich soils. Some 40% of the UK’s land area is grassland – but much of this is intensively farmed, limiting its potential for carbon storage.

Globally, studies have suggested that 2.3-7.3 billion tons of CO2 equivalents per year could be sequestered through grassland diversity restoration. Carbon sequestration doesn’t just mean more trees. Healthy grassland, with the more sensitive grazing and less intensive farming that nourishes it, also keeps carbon out of the atmosphere. 

No matter how large or small our garden, we all have a role to play, and we can all make a difference. It’s easy to get started – just put your lawnmower away this May!

More about #NoMowMay

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker
Yellow Rattle in a hay meadow

Yellow Rattle: The Meadow Maker

Yellow Rattle, is the single most important plant you need when creating a wildflower meadow. Here’s everything you need to know.

What does a No Mow May lawn look like?
No Mow May lawn with Bulbous Buttercup and Meadow saxifrage

What does a No Mow May lawn look like?

Thousands of people across the country have been letting it grow for #NoMowMay this year – and this is what it looks like!

No Mow May: Can your Garden be a Carbon Store?  
Garden meadow by pond (c) Shuttleworth

No Mow May: Can your Garden be a Carbon Store?  

It’s not just trees that capture and store carbon – our meadows and grasslands can play an important role too.